Berwyn's Two Beginnings
The south end of Berwyn today was originally made up of three
communities: LaVergne, Upsala or "Swedetown," and Berwyn. This
entire area was bounded by 31st Street, and Ogden, Lombard,
and Harlem Avenues.
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LaVergne
Berwyn's development began in 1856 when Thomas Baldwin
purchased 347 acres of land that he subdivided into large,
10-acre lots, hoping to market the idea that he named
LaVergne as an all exclusive community for affluent
residents. Baldwin invested heavily in this community;
he built many roads and imported thousands of maple,
ash, cedar, poplar, and pine trees, which were planted
throughout the area that was bounded on the east by
Ridgeland Avenue, on the west by Harlem Avenue, on
the north by 31st Street, and by Old Plank Road (now
Ogden Avenue and formally U.S. Route 66), on the south.
At that time, the only mode of
transportation between the LaVergne community and the
City of Chicago was by the horse and buggy along Old
Plank Road. In 1862 Baldwin sold an 80-foot wide strip
of land to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy
Railroad, encouraging them to build a railroad
extension to the new community. In the 1870s, residents
built their own LaVergne Station along the new tracks
at Ridgeland and Windsor Avenues. After Baldwin's death,
his daughter Emma sold a portion of LaVergne to a land
syndicate headed by Marshall Field. In 1888, as the
community grew, Cicero Township, which had jurisdiction
over all of the area that is present-day Berwyn, Cicero,
and Oak Park, built LaVergne School on a triangle of
land bounded by Ogden, 34th Street, and Gunderson Avenue. |
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Swedetown
That same year, the Illinois Central laid tracks just north
of LaVergne, bringing a group of Swedish immigrants who
settled along 31st Street from East Avenue to Oak Park
Avenue. The area, which became known as Upsala or "Swedetown,"
soon became well known for its excellent craftsmen and
bakeries. |
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Berwyn
The city now known as Berwyn had its real beginnings when
two attorneys and real estate partners, Charles E. Piper
and Wilbur J. Andews, purchased 106 acres from the Field
syndicate for the development near the CB&Q tracks. In
those early days, rail lines had a major impact on the
development of suburbs in the Chicago area. Piper and
Andrews asked the CB&Q to build a station at Oak Park
Avenue, but the railroad refused, saying there were already
stations at LaVergne and at Harlem Avenue. Undaunted,
the two developers built a station themselves and the
railroad agreed to stop there.
With a growing subdivision and railroad station to serve
it on the way, Piper and Andrews needed a name. They
sought out the CB&Q's passenger agent, P.S. Eustis, who
gave them a set of railroad timetables. After pouring
through them they came across Berwyn, a small town about
18 miles west of Philadelphia. Berwyn, Pennsylvania,
was a beautiful and affluent village noted for its fine
gardens and scenic setting. Since this was exactly the
sort of community that the two developers hoped to replicate
in Illinois, Piper and Andrews decided that Berwyn was
the perfect name. On May 17, 1890, the Cicero Town Board
gave its approval and Berwyn, Illinois was born.
Soon, a general store and office building costing about
$6,000 was constructed, followed by a small post office.
Homes quickly followed and gradually, eight miles of
streets were macadamized and sidewalks were laid. In
those early years, Piper and Andrews were actively promoting
their growing community, advertising extensively in Chicago
newspapers. Typical ads boasted of Berwyn's convenient
location -- just 9-1/2 miles or 28 minutes by CB&Q train
to Chicago's Union Depot -- while others pointed out
Berwyn's many churches, splendid schools, water, sewers,
electric service, and lack of saloons. Many choice lots
and modern residences, the ads stated, were still available
at prices ranging from $3,000 to $10,000. |
South Oak Park
At roughly the same time, still another community was developing
on the north side of present day Berwyn, aided by "Honest John"
Kelly.
Located more than 1-1/2 miles north
of the growing communities to its south, this area extended
from Roosevelt Road to 16th Street and from Ridgeland
to Harlem and was first known as South Oak Park. In 1887,
the Union Mutual Life Insurance Company first built homes
for its employees in South Oak Park. Sold on the community's
potential, Kelly opened an office on Roosevelt Road,
west of Oak Park Avenue. Realtor, builder, insurance
man, and community servant, Kelly was a typical turn-of-the-century
entrepreneur full of energy and drive.
Only two dirt roads, Oak Park and Ridgeland Avenues,
connected this community with its neighbors to the south,
extending across the many farms and fields that dotted
the area. The street names from one side of town to the
other didn't match and 1-1/2 miles of fields separated
the two sections. Each community had its own churches,
stores, clubs, and public transportation.
At the turn of
the century, when the Oak Park-River Forest School
District set its boundaries at Roosevelt Road, it eliminated
north Berwyn families and broke the tie between Berwyn
and Oak Park. Residents of the north turned southward
and joined together with the town of Berwyn in 1901.
Berwyn Incorporated as a City
Berwyn's growth was
such that soon some form of local government was soon necessary
and, in 1902, it was incorporated as a village. Six years
later, on June 6, 1908, Berwyn became a city, receiving its
official charter from the State of Illinois. The 1910 census
recorded Berwyn's population as 5,841.
The first two decades of the twentieth century saw Berwyn
develop in much the same way as other Chicago suburbs. It was
a place in which, as "The WPA Guide to Illinois" states, "harried
commuters relaxed in the evening, weeded gardens, set hens,
and mowed their lawns." In 1921, the central portion of
the city began its rapid development. Large numbers of Czechs
moved from the Pilsen area on Chicago's near West Side to Berwyn
and its neighbor on the east, Cicero. Literally thousands of
new homes were built each year. The population growth and the
infill of vacant land finally brought the two parts of Berwyn
together.
Many newcomers found jobs at Western Electric's huge
Hawthorne Works in Cicero, commuting via trolley. On July 24,
1915, Berwyn was plunged into mourning when the steamer Eastland,
chartered for a Western Electric company excursion, rolled
onto its side in the Chicago River, claiming 812 lives. Many
in Berwyn lost relatives, friends, or neighbors in the disaster.
[ More
Eastland information here ]
Early Residents Build Quality Homes, Neighborhoods
Berwyn's construction
boom continued into the Roaring Twenties, as farms and fields
gave way overnight to new homes. Entire blocks were built
at once, with contractors digging all basements simultaneously, then
bringing in crews to lay foundations, followed by carpenters,
bricklayers and plasterers. Block after block of bungalows
rose as Berwyn's population swelled; from 14,150 in 1920
to 47,027 in 1930 - an increase of 222% in just ten years.
Today, Berwyn has the most significant collection of Chicago-style bungalows
in the nation. Traditionally,
Berwyn Bungalows are one-story buildings with basement and
attic, two to three bedrooms, and a living and dining room.
Decorative details included oak woodwork and stained glass
windows. The finances of the owner at the time they were built
determined the specific design of the windows, roofs, and interiors.
These bungalows, built between the 1920's through the 1940's,
range in style from smaller one or one-and-a-half story units
to the larger, "super" bungalows,
with two full stories, glazed brick exteriors and tile roofs
-- some in flashy colors like blue, blue-green or multicolor.
During those years, Berwyn boasted of being the fastest growing
city in the United States. Even as recently as 1991, the Chicago
Sun-Times reported that "Berwyn has the highest concentration
of financial institutions in the world - a tribute to the frugality
of its forebears." Cermak Road, Berwyn's primary business corridor,
was once known as "The
Bohemian Wall Street."
Families with
Czech and Bohemian roots, together with many Italian-Americans,
Greeks, Lithuanians, Poles, Yugoslavians and Ukrainians, have
been joined in recent years by Hispanics, African and Asian
Americans who now call Berwyn home. As Berwyn moves into the
21st century, its traditionally hard-working, middle-class,
mostly blue collar families, who were admitted conservative
in their outlook, are joined by young, professional families
and a growing population of gay and lesbian residents.
Now, just as in those early times, Berwynites are justly proud
of "Beautiful Berwyn." With its tree-lined streets,
sturdy brick bungalows, and Victorian "painted ladies," Berwyn
continues to be a stable, safe, and diverse community. With
the continuing efforts of its homeowners, business community,
civic organizations, and city government, Berwyn looks forward
to its "second century" as it celebrates its rich
and varied past.
The Berwyn Development Corporation wishes to acknowledge the
contributions of Lori Thielen, President, Berwyn Historical
Society, and thank her for compiling much of the foregoing
history of Berwyn, Illinois.

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